Pl2303 Eeprom Writer Program
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Not strictly a PICAXE question but I think there is a wealth of PL2303 knowledge amongst the forum's members. I recently bought an LG Smart TV.
The documentation indicated that it could be controlled externally from a suitably configured receiver via a 'PL2303 chip-based USB to serial converter'. Having several Prolific PL2303 cables that I use for my PICAXE work, I plugged one into a USB port on the LG TV.
The TV responded with a message (something like) 'Unrecognised USB device inserted'. Hmm: when is a PL2303 not a PL2303? Digging deeper into the LG's owner's manual (they're getting better) revealed the following: ' LGTV supports PL2303 chip-based (Vendor ID: 0x0557, Product ID: 0x2008) USB to serial converter which is not made nor provided by LG.' A quick check of my PL2303 cable, when plugged into my laptop, reveals Vendor ID: 0x67b, Product ID: 0x2303 Prolific Technology, Inc.
Being a TV, you can't just download an alternate driver to use a different USB device: you're stuck with the TV's firmware. All sorts of questions come to mind. Ultimately, do members know how to identify one of the 'alternate' PL2303 (Vendor ID: 0x0557, Product ID: 0x2008) USB to serial converters?
Alternatively, where I can buy one and be confident that I am buying a compatible converter. Ie in the packaging, without opening it? I don't want to buy 20 of them just to find one that works with the TV. Two replies, both from Texas! Thanks for doing the research Goeytex.
That lead on ATEN International got me Googling again after work today (it's currently Tuesday evening local time). I managed to download a copy of the EEPROM programmer but it doesn't seen to recognise the PL2303 chip when the USB is plugged in. I'm assuming that the EEPROM is accessed via the normal USB connection to the converter: instructions that make sense to me seem to be non-existent. The EEWriter program tells me that I have to write to the EEPROM before it will read it. I have no way of telling what PL2303 chip I have without breaking open the plastic housing. I think my best solution is to buy a cable. I've found a few suppliers, one of them is local but wanting around A$40 (US$37) for the converter.
To me, that's a tad expensive but I don't want to gin around for weeks. @Texasclodhopper - No, I haven't called LG's Australian support line. I'm put off by my experiences with other vendor's support lines - they seem to cater for the 'consumer' end of the market and not tech-heads like me.
It can be frustrating to be able to tell them more than they can tell me. I'll call LG tomorrow before I place an order for the converter cable. I'll try to get one from within Australia due to consumer laws being more effective for me; although I hope I don't have to return a substitute or fake. I called LG's Support line (1300 LG CARE in Australia) earlier today.
Level 1 support didn't have a clue (as expected) but referred me to Level 2, who called back 3 1/2 hears later (but they did call back ). The L2 support guy had never heard of the feature where a receiver could control the TV via a serial link. My previous LG TV had a DE9 serial port dedicated to this function: this worked well, hence my desire to use it on the new model.
This more recent model uses USB to receive the serial commands. I had to get the guy to go to the appropriate page of the user manual to make him aware of the feature (What did I say in my earlier post?). Once I'd convinced him, he checked with his supervisor/colleagues and nobody knew about it or where I could buy a suitable USB/Serial converter cable. I was told that the feature would have been built and tested in South Korea and may not work in LG TVs that use (firmware for the Australian market - my paraphrase). His only suggestion was to go to 'computer stores', armed with the manual, and ask if they could supply a suitable converter cable.
So much for the 1300 'LG CARE'! Back from the side issue. I have checked the USB-to-serial converters of 3 stock lines of 3 store chains and all three use PL2303 chips programmed with the Prolific Vendor ID (0x067B).
I suspect the VID = 0x0557 is a rare thing. The ATEN UC-232A converters are advertised on the internet, so I'll try my luck with the condition that the VID must be 0x0557 with no substitutes or fakes.
If I get it to work, I'll probably be the first person in Australia to do so! Thanks for your assistance/feedback.
It is frustrating that an identical pieces of hardware with an identical functions need to have several different ID numbers burned into them for some perceived commercial gain. After all, all the (legitimate) PL2303 chips are made by (or licenced by) Prolific. As Prolific says on their website, they do not make the converters/leads: just the PL2303 chips and drivers. So why the need for multiple ID numbers? @hippy: Thanks for the link to the official datasheet. I had already downloaded it. BTW the link you provided has a few spurious characters at the end, which invalidate the URL.
After all, all the (legitimate) PL2303 chips are made by (or licenced by) Prolific. As Prolific says on their website, they do not make the converters/leads: just the PL2303 chips and drivers. So why the need for multiple ID numbers? It is an issue of what VID/PID does or should identify; the product you have in your hand or the component used in that product which interfaces to the USB bus. The USB specification allows it to be either.
Arguably it should be the former so no matter who the product came from you can identify exactly what it is and the manufacturer of it simply by reading the PID/VID. However, what some may call a loophole, allows for the later. The most likely reason LG specify VID=0557 and PID=2008 is that's the cable they tested their software with and that's what they know works. So that's the cable they coded their software to recognise, and that's what they tell customers to use. The problem here seems to lie not with Prolific allowing VID/PID to be changed but with LG only accepting a cable with a specific VID/PID. I modified a USB cable to supply 5.0 or 6.5V to a cheapo PL2303-HX Adapter, and then ran the EEWriter Programer.
At 5V when READ was pressed, it reported that the EEPROM was not yet Programmed. When a write was attempted, it failed. When 6.5V was applied and a read was attempted it reported 'Read Failed'.
When write was attempted at 6.5V it also failed. Everything failed at 6.5v.
The Chip EEPROM could not be written at any voltage. My best guess is that these Ebay sourced cheapos are fakes, however they work OK in circuit for Picaxe Programming. At last, a conclusion to this story. I could only find one supplier in Perth that carries over-the-counter ATEN UC-232A PL2303 converters (there is at least one on-line supplier). Due to the weekend, this afternoon was the first opportunity I had to get my hands on the converter. After purchase, on the counter of the shop, I unpacked and plugged the USB-to-Serial converter into my laptop. The device manager told me the newly inserted USB devices had VID=0557 and PID=2008.
Later, at home, I plugged the lead into the LG TV and there was no error message displayed (no message at all, actually). Some time later, I was able to get a response from my TV after sending a properly formatted command into it. Oh joy, oh joy!! Thanks to all who assisted and contributed. Edit 15-May-2014: For those people like me (Eg Googlers) who want to send commands into their LG TV using this USB-to-Serial converter, the serial connection does not perform 'perfectly' as per LG's manual. In the end, I had to modify the software in my Receiver/Home Theatre Controller as follows:.
Send the command as text (LG's manual is a bit confusing). For TV #1 (most people will only be interworking with one TV), send the ASCII character '1'. The response from the TV initially works well but responses go awry after a few commands. The TV seems to echo something back after each command, but not matching the manual's specification. I set my controller up to check the response for the two character string 'NG'. If the controller received a response that did not contain 'NG', it treated the response as positive acknowledgement. The 'OK' response was not reliable but the commands seem to work correctly.
Pl2303hx Eeprom Writer Program
This algorithm seems to be close to 100% reliable to date.
However, to make matters even more annoying, the PL2303 chip, which typically identifies itself as VID 067B and PID 2303, reports PID 0609 in this device, making it impossible to recognize this as a standard serial to usb converter. The easiest solution for this is to modify the drivers so that they identify also with that PID. In Linux this and as I write this PID 0609 is already associated with the pl2303 driver by default.
In Windows some inf modding does the trick. Download the drivers from the, install them and use search for the file ser2pl.inf. This will typically reside in a folder containg 4 or 5 files. You can copy this folder as one if you want to keep it as a single 'driver package'.
Inside the inf, replace all occurences of of PID2303 with PID0609 and use the Device Manager to assign the driver to the modem. For me, this worked in Windows XP but not in Windows 7 64 bit. After some searching around, it seems that the PL2303 can be connected to an EEPROM chip for some customisation (just like the FTDI converter chips). Any non-standard USB PID is written in there. If you want to change it back, you need to rewrite this EEPROM.
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Pl2303 Eeprom Writer Program
This can be done from within Windows using a tool I found on but the only prerequisite is that the device is already recognized as a PL2303 USB to Serial converter. So in my case I had to rewrite the EEPROM from within Windows XP with a modified.inf driver. Below is a screenshot of the EEPROM writer after pressing the read button on the non-modified usb modem. Just change PID to 2303 and write everything back. You can find a copy of the tool in the attachment section under this post.